After performing a field survey, does your surveyor need to file a record of the survey map with the county surveyor? In California, Business and Professions Code Section 8762 answers that question. In general, “after making a field survey in conformity with the practice of land surveying, the licensed surveyor or licensed civil engineer may file with the county surveyor in the county in which the field survey was made, a record of the survey.”
However, in certain situations, the record of the survey must be filed with the county surveyor. These relate to the discovery of material changes or discrepancies from subdivision maps, official maps, or records of surveys previously recorded, as well as the establishment of new points or lines.
You really don’t want to kill a tree. This is more of a do as I say, not as I do post. Anyways, I’m pretty sure that no one actually flushes a water heater, at least until a problem arises. Well, that day arrived a few months ago when the water pressure suddenly dropped. I tried draining the water heater just in case some sediment was clogging the pipes. Turns out, that wasn’t the problem.
So, how would you dispose of 50 gallons of hot water? Living in water-starved California, draining the water straight into the sidewalk gutter would be the sub-optimal answer. So, I thought I should re-use the water for watering the garden. At first, I tested the water on some weeds. Showing no ill effect, I dragged the hose to the base of a cherry tree and allowed the water heater to drain completely.
Turns out, this was not the win/win solution I envisioned because when spring finally rolled around, a certain cherry tree was not sprouting green buds and flowers like the other trees in the garden. Yes, that is how to kill a tree. If you want to flush a water heater and re-use the water, empty it into a clean trash can or storage container and allow the water to cool first.
I’ve changed my share of Kwikset and Schlage locksets before. These locksets install and uninstall quite similarly, so I’ve never had to drag out the manual whenever I had to re-key a door.
Tonight, I tackled my first Baldwin lockset and it was quite a challenge. So, what exactly happened? Well, I had an interior door lockset that had been jamming for quite some time. Even when the door was unlocked, I would feel resistance when turning the knob in one direction. When I started wiggling the door knob, it went from bad to worse. The knob was now stuck off-center and no amount of turning could get the knob unstuck. The real bad news was that if the door were to close, there would be no easy way to open the door again from inside or out. Thus, this was not a repair that could wait until the next morning.
From a visual inspection, I found the set screw that held the inside knob in place. A couple twists with a screwdriver fitted with a hex head freed the screw as well as the inside knob. Next the rose plate. I tugged at it. I looked for a slot to pry the plate off. I got absolutely no where. Thankfully, Baldwin’s online installation guides bailed me out. I would have never guessed that the rose plate was a screw-on. Really different from a Kwikset or Schlage.
With the rose plate removed, the rest was fairly straightforward. During the reassembly stage, I did notice that getting the screws to affix the inner assembly to the outer assembly was remarkably easy. With other brands, I occasionally get stuck for a few minutes while trying blindly to insert the screw into the corresponding hole. All in all, not a very difficult challenge if you have access to the instructions. I am not sure how anyone managed to perform home repairs pre-Internet. Even if you meticulously kept all your installation guides and operating manuals, you’ll still have to sift through boxes of documents to locate the right one, that is if the contractor who performed the original install kept it for you.
Last night, an elf had stopped by to re-decorate the house with a nice, red crayon. Fortunately, the elf focused on the baseboard with a semi-gloss finish instead of setting her eyes higher on the wall with a textured, flat finish.
What Worked. A wet sponge with a touch of Bon Ami was really effective in removing most of the crayon markets. Scrub, rinse and repeat. For the edge, I located an old, but clean toothbrush and brushed away the remaining art work that the sponge could not reach. Good for those hard-to-reach corners.
What Didn’t. I had a bottle of orange-colored degreaser spray that stated on the label that it could remove crayon marks. I sprayed some on the colored surface and rubbed away with a paper towel. I think the towel turned slightly pink, but was not particularly effective. I tried scraping away with a plastic Play-Doh knife. I was able to remove some crayon scraps, but that was not helpful either.
When I shop at Costco, I expect to receive a quality product at a competitive price. Usually, I am extremely happy with my purchases, but that garage door I purchased from them has turned out to be quite a doozy. Mind you, the garage door itself is fine. The problem is with everything else attached to that garage door.
So, three years in, one of the torsion springs broke. Only three years? So, I found another contractor to replace both of the torsion springs and I didn’t think much about the garage again until a few months ago when the garage door opener started failing intermittently. Sometimes the door would not open all the way. Other times it would not close all the way. I had not problem with the opening, because I could always click on the garage door opener a second time. However, the closing was a serious issue because unless you monitored the garage door every time to make sure that it closed completely, there was always a chance that the garage door was not securely shut.
Long story short, I replaced the Chamberlain Whisper Drive 1/2 HP Belt Drive garage door opener, which was not all that quiet, with a LiftMaster 3850 DC Motor Belt with EverCharge Standby Power System. After I changed the garage door opener, the problem completely disappeared and the new opener is amazingly quiet. No more rattle and shake when the door is opening or closing. Just solid and quiet.
As a house settles, doors that used to open and shut smoothly start sticking. And, sometimes the door falls so far out of alignment that strike plate no longer catches the door latch. So, how can this be fixed?
Well, adjusting the strike plate is not the answer. First, look at where the latch is hitting the strike plate. Is the latch passing above or below the hole in the strike plate? This tells you which door hinge you have to adjust to rotate the door. In my case, the latch was passing above the hole in the strike plate. To correct this, I needed to push down top of latch-side of the door down so that the hole in the strike plate would catch the latch again. To rotate the door in that direction, I needed to push out the top door hinge a bit. Originally, the door hinge was flush with the door jamb. However, I loosened the screws holding the hinge to the door jamb, placed a piece of cardboard behind the hinge, traced the outline of the hinge with a pencil, and then cut the cardboard to obtain a pad. With the pad, I placed it under the hinge, and tightened the screws. So, in the photo, the top hinge now sits a bit off the door jamb. However, this slight adjustment was just enough to push down latch such that it now catches whenever the door is shut.
Through a generous discount, I was able to purchase a pair of LED lights from a local hardware store. So, for the past few months, I’ve been waiting for one of my incandescent or compact fluorescent light bulbs to burn out. Tonight, my opportunity finally arrived and the incandescent was the victim. So, in its place, I installed a Pharox LED Light 60 Bulb. Since I have a mix of incandescent, fluorescent and now LED bulbs installed next to each other in my ceiling lights, I can easily compare all of them. The LED light appears dimmer than the other bulbs and has a bit of a blue/green cast. Of course, the warmth of the light is only noticeable when I stare at the ceiling. When I am normally working, the problem is not obvious.
At 6 watts, the LED light should be more energy efficient than a CFL. What remains to be seen is whether it will last the promised “25 years.” My CFLs generally do not last the 10,000 hours promised, so I would be very surprised if the LED bulb lasts until October 2035.
When designing or redesigning a kitchen, you will be confronted with a variety of design options. I love slide-out shelves, which offer a combination of convenience and accessibility. For storing pots and pans, slide-out shelves let you use the entire shelf–front and back–and you can access any pot or pan regardless of its location. Some cabinet manufacturers also offer built-in waste basket and recycling bin options. The upside of a built-in waste basket or recycling bin is that such a cabinet can hide the mess that open trash cans present. However, the downside is that you can only replace a trash can or recycling bin with one of similar size.
After a few years of use, the rim of our waste basket started to break off. I thought that finding a replacement waste basket would be easy. But, after visiting Home Depot, Target, Wal-Mart, OSH and Bed Bath and Beyond and not finding a similar waste basket, I discovered that I was in trouble. How do you find a replacement for an unlabeled rectangular white plastic waste basket? Fortunately, I found a label on the white waste basket in the other built-in cabinet and easily ordered a replacement online. Actually, I ordered quite a few because shipping large plastic trash cans apparently is not cheap. When the trash cans finally arrived, I discovered that the white trash can I was using as a recycling bin was not the same size as the white trash can I was using as a waste basket. Doh! This time, I carefully measured the trash can and bought something similar in dimension. Hopefully it will work out.
After lunch at The Old Siam, I discovered a light bulb store while walking to my car. Batteries N Bulbs is located at 1111 W El Camino Real, #135, Sunnyvale, California. Although the interior of the store is quite spartan, the store carries an amazing variety of light bulbs. Since I needed a few specialty bulbs, I headed in to take a look.
First, the other 4 Pin Trip Tube Fluorescent Bulb in the bathroom went out. At least, I got 7 more months of use from this one, but no where near the claim 10,000 hour life. For this go around, I picked up an Eiko 26 watt 3500° K Triple Tube FLuorescent Lamp Base GX24q-3 for $15.95.
Compared to a 100 watt incandescent bulb, I should be saving 74 watts per hour. If the light is on for 3 hours a day for the 3 year life of the bulb, that’s 3,285 hours. So, the compact fluorescent saved me 249,600 KWH during its functional life. So, how much does 249 KWH cost? At 9.54 cents per KWH, one bulb saves me $23.76, if I would have installed a 100 watt bulb instead. So, despite the diminished life of the fluorescent bulb, I think I’m still ahead.
Now, for the more difficult task. I was also looking for a 40 watt type t4 e11 base mini candlelabra. I’ve searched in all the major hardware stores but never found a replacement bulb until I found Batteries N Bulbs. I mean this bulb was out for at least a year or more. The replacement bulb, a Bulbrite Industries, Inc. KX40CL/MC cost me $16.75.
I recently found the Hansgrohe Raindance E 120 AIR 3-Jet selling for $59.97 at Costco and decided to give it a try. I also have a Grohe Relaxa Plus and a Hansgrohe Interaktiv 2-Jet Handshower installed. When I purchased the Raindance, I thought I could just switch the handshower units. However, the the Raindance operates a bit different from the Relaxa Plus and the Interaktiv handshowers. Unlike the Relaxa Plus and the Interaktiv handshower units, the Raindance handshower has the flow restrictor built into the showerarm mount (where you hang the handshower) instead of into the handshower unit itself. So, if I just swapped the handshower units, the Raindance would output more than the reported 2.5 GPM maximum flow rate.
Out of curiousity, I had a 2.5 gallon plastic bucket in the laundry room. First, I filled the bucket using the Raindance handshower. The bucket started to overflow at around the 50-55 second mark, which is close to a 3 GPM mark. Next, I filled the bucket with the Grohe Relaxa Plus handshower. Despite the same reported maximum flow rate, the Relaxa Plus needed 1:40 minutes to fill the same bucket, or about 1.50 GPM. I always assumed that my showerheads were outputting at the maximum flow rate. Get a bucket and test your showerheads and see if they are delivery more or less water than the reported maximum flow rate.